a cream-colored lace over old blue taffeta with a hobble skirt. Around the Empire
waistline is a girdle of brilliants. Pink flowers and green leaves decorate the neckline.
She also wears a taffeta headband with a pink flower in her hair. With this, she wears
purple shoes. No notes on hat. In 1910, Poiret devised a rather exotic evening
outfit that included an overtunic which was shaped like a lampshade and fell to
the just below the knee. This was worn over a skirt that swathed around the
legs. The long slim skirt was designed to fall to the ankle without any vent or
opening. Poiret boasted that he had freed the bust but "shackled the legs", as
women could only take very short steps within the skirt. This therefore became
known as a hobble skirt. Some of these were so extreme that an ankle fetter of
braid was worn by women to prevent them from stepping out too far and either
overturning themselves or splitting the skirt. To some extent the new fashion
was influenced by the Russian ballet. Diaghilev had brought it to Paris where
its performance of Scheherazade with costumes by Leon Bakst initiated a
taste for Orientalism in fashion. Striking and even garish colors became
popular, but even more ubiquitous were the overtunics and slender lines.
Ironically, it led to the new shorter fashions that occurred later in the
decade: when women started doing war work in 1914, they abandoned the underskirt
and wore the tunic by itself.
Harriet Spiller Dagget (1891 - 1966)
Harriet Spiller Dagget originally studied to be a teacher at the Louisiana
State Normal College in Natchitoches, then taught at Jennings High School. Soon,
however, she left teaching to marry (teachers were not allowed to be married at
that time), becoming Mrs. De Van Daggett in 1909. When her husband's rice
business collapsed after World War I, she decided to follow a career interest
she'd developed while listening to her father, a clerk of court, talk about the
law as a child. She enrolled at LSU in Baton Rouge and worked her way up through
a series of degrees B.A., M.A., LL.B. Three years later, she earned a J.D. from
Yale. By 1927, she had passed the bar and become an instructor in the university
law school, becoming the first woman to hold a full-time professorship at an
accredited law school. She focused on family and community property law in
Louisiana, though she was also an expert on mineral rights. In 1931, she
published what is still the basic authority on the subject, The Community
Property System of Louisiana, and in 1939, published yet another legal
classic, Mineral Rights in Louisiana. The second was particularly
important because so little law regarding mineral rights existed at the time
that Daggett's book formulated the basis on which it was eventually written. She
continued to be a formidable legal scholar (known to her students as "Ma"
Daggett not coincidentally, both her sons became lawyers) and influential in a
number of political and social issues throughout her career.